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Posted by Lance on 11/12/2003, 8:42 pm, in reply to "Aisin carb" The following is a list of questions for the rebuild that I send to everyone considering a rebuild. I know some answers already, but more info is good info. 1. Rank these in order of importance: mileage, power, drivability, restoration 2. What ignition system is on the Cruiser? stock, non-USA stock, Pertronix, HEI, Jacobs 3. What type of fuel pump is on the Cruiser? stock, electric 4. What type of exhaust system is on the Cruiser? stock, header, high flow (Flowmaster, etc.) 5. What size tire/axle ratio/2hi/4lo/1st/4th are you utilizing? i.e. 34"/4.11 diffs/1hi/2.3lo/4.9-1st/1-4th 6. What is your preferred altitude range? + or - 2,500' 7. Any current problems? emission failure, no start, bad mileage, no oomph 8. Any future performance plans? ignition, exhaust, compression increases, cam etc. 9. Do you want emissions enabled or disabled? (see H below) 10. Any time limits or wait till dates? 11. All Toyota, cheapest, Toyota with BW 2nd (standard rebuild)? before I get started. I have many parts carbs available and normally can pull what I need and go. No extra costs to you, but keep in mind, rarely (<10 times out of ~300 rebuilds), I don't have what you need and will need to find it. If this occurs, I will contact you and let you make a decision about which way to go, costs are normally cheap, but time can be a factor to locate the right part. B. Most carbs have lost power making ability over time or you are wanting more power. Remember, more power means more heat ALWAYS. Most Cruisers are able to handle this without any problems. However, if your cooling system (pump, radiator, hoses, coolant) is marginal right now, it will not get better with a rebuilt carb. C. Ignition/fuel pumps/exhaust systems work hand in glove with carbs. If your distributor is bad (no vacuum advance, installed wrong, etc.) rebuilding your carb is not going to fix it. Same for fuel pump and exhaust. It may even frustrate you more (money/time apparently wasted) to have rebuilt your carb expecting a fix-all. Examine them closely or solve problems systematically. I can help you with troubleshooting and some repairs if needed. D. Make sure you examine your intake manifold when you pull your carb. If you do not know what a cracked intake manifold looks like I will send a photo to you. If your turns out to be cracked fix it while your carb is with me. You will need to have it welded and the I/E manifolds machined (~$50 for both + new gasket ~30-50). Not too common, but not rare. I hate people to not be aware of possibilities. E. Expectations- Your Cruiser will NOT go 75mph up a 7% grade while getting 17 mpg. Be realistic and focus on what is important to you (see 1st question). Remember your friend the Cruiser is a gas sucking, tractor engine using, brick with big tires and low gears. It is no Camry and will not work like one. You can expect good drivability, reasonable horsepower gains ~5-10hp, reasonable mileage ~12-14mpg in a FJ40/45/55, 15-16 in a 60, pass emissions testing and excellent off road manners. F. Will I be able to drop the rebuilt carb on and go? Maybe, however most will need to re-adjust the idle to their specific location. I am at 750', so even though I run test, I can not set final idle on a carb that will operate at 2,700', 8,000' or even 0' altitude. You will also need to be familiar with the fuel lines, idle solenoid and emission connections. Take a digital/film pic or video before you remove the carb and/or carefully mark all disconnects. Almost all post rebuild problems come from failure to re-connect vacuum lines/linkage correctly. Even a '60's cruiser has 5 connections, a late '80's has 14. Label, photograph, use a good manual, but please do not guess or go solely by memory, the odds are against you getting it all back together correctly. G. Will I need to do anything else? Maybe, I recommend that you install a new fuel filter, new air filter, retorque head, set valves, new plugs and set the timing. A vacuum gauge and a digital timing light help here. If you don't have one borrow, buy, or rent one. If you farm this out, a competent mechanic should perform this for $125-$250 dollars. If you do it $25-50. Do you really have to do this? No, but a Cruiser in tune is a happy Cruiser that gives the best gas mileage and performance. H. Emission disabling: It is against the law to disable emission control devices on vehicles driven on the road/highway/street in the USA. If asked to disable emissions it is with the understanding that any such modified carburetor is for "off road use" or "racing" at sanctioned events and that these modified carburetors will not be utilized on public roads. Please check your local laws for additional exceptions. Keep in mind that even if your State/area does not "check" or "test" emissions, it is still illegal to disable existing systems designed and assembled with your vehicle when originally constructed by the OE manufacturer. All right, you made it this far now what? What I do to your carb: Inspect/clean Disassemble Clean in immersion tank Flush/inspect Reassemble with any mods desired (re-jet, re-venturi, emissions, high altitude, etc.) Run test Return Toyota rebuild kit (a few are now unavailable, leaving only aftermarket) BW 2nd Diaphragm ,if equiped, (Toyota 2nd are available but are $35-65 vs. $9) Toyota jets (if changing) What will it look like? Clean, grease/oil/gunk free, functional and Cruiserish. It will not be sparkling and shining. I can bead blast and re-zinc parts for those doing a true restoration or show truck but costs for this special rebuild can be significant. Warranty: 1 year, It works or I fix it, if it won't work to your satisfaction you get your money back. No labor coverage for removing the carb to come back to me, no inconsequential damage cost reimbursed. I am proud to say only 3 carbs have come back in 6 years now and 1 was from a 57 T-Bird (The CRAP carb design of all time) Standard Rebuild Costs: $175 + $15 shipping back to you. This covers all parts costs, rebuild, and my supplies. Money order, checks, or PayPal (please add 4% for PayPal). Turn around time: ~10-20 days (not including shipping times, which can be longer around Christmas mailing season) Sending the carb: Remove from manifold, drain fuel, remove airfilter stud (if equipped), wrap in heavy plastic, box in peanuts or paper. Mail via USPS, UPS, or FedEx. I recommend insuring for at least $100, included in UPS/FedEx base rate (I insure for $400 coming back to you). I also recommend adding a copy of the shipping label inside the box. Ship to: Eric Chandler 5238 Austral Loop Austin, Texas 78739 Let me know what you would like to do. Or if you have any questions. Phone numbers: home 512-288-6369, pager 512-404-2836. Thanks, Eric Chandler
Here is the standard carb info. Please note the costs and shipping times are different for you and other LSLC members. As I mentioned already $75 and 8-10 days.
Now some standard disclaimers/thought provokers:
A. Most Aisan carbs have been rebuilt at least once, usually twice. Sometimes parts are missing/broken/modified
What I use in standard rebuild:
Responses: