Hi Andy, Nigel,

Thanks for replying:-

>What size is the broken tap

1/4"UNF.

>item it is stuck in "portable"

Clutch lever.

>break it down using a small chisel and then drill a new hole and helicoil

As I say, hole is less than 1/4" i.d.; lever is case-hardened steel.

>Could try

Again unfortunately, I don't have any way of grinding the remains of the broken tap flat so I could start a new hole centrally for that tool.

>badge hole, are you saying that running a tap through the holes wont allow the screws to freely go in?

Not all screws in any holes; I can get all screws in all holes but only with selective assembly.

>are the screw threads on the screws in good nick, and the right thread?

They came out of the tanks before painting, the job was initially just to clean up the threads in the tanks after painting. However, as they're only 8UNC, if I don't have a die already, I'll get one.

>As you know more often that not running a tap through a knackered thread restores normality unless the thread is completely knackered, or of course the tap is past its's best.

I'll die the screw threads but tap past its best is what I was wondering, although it's only ever been used for cleaning threads.

>Walton tap extractor

That's a generally Bloody Good Idea; unfortunately, on this occasion, the offending tap only has two flutes (No.1 tap). Nevertheless, I'll spend some time with my mate Google, see if there's a 2-flute version.

>dissovle broken taps using a super saturated solution of alum

Unfortunately, this offending tap's in a steel clutch lever.

>tank badge threads in chromed tanks ?

Uh-uh, tanks just painted; the screws actually came out of the tanks, I was just cleaning the tank threads after painting, which is why I was surprised at the subsequent difficulty refitting the screws.

Once again, thanks for your time, guys.

Regards,