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NSU Update
Posted by John on February 12, 2021, 11:10 am
The NSU electrics are finally fixed (hopefully) stopped trying to sort the wiring (all the same colour and nothing marked). Threw it all away and started again without the “chocolate-block” connectors, sticky tape etc. Sorting the dynamo proved to be somewhat more of a problem, the regulator/cut-out didn’t work and finding another for a 70 year dynamo was not going to be easy. Spent along time “chasing rainbows” diodes, relays and a cheap German regulator that was said to be just the thing, only it wasn’t. Bosch dynamos are wired differently from say a Lucas as they have earth side regulation as opposed to live side regulation which makes regulator you buy here unsuitable. However I discovered that it was possible to rearrange the dynamo’s internal wiring to the Lucas style. Thus ordered a unit from a well known British supplier of M/C parts
No names, no pack drill, but I’m sure some of you will recognise it, I won’t be buying another one. It turned out to be just as useless. In the end did what I should have done in the first place and bought a DVR2. They are not designed and will not work with Bosch dynamos, but once the internal wiring was swapped round it work just fine.
Re: NSU Update
Posted by Tonupdave on February 12, 2021, 1:55 pm, in reply to "NSU Update"
Wish I could be confident on the electrics still Havnt sorted the Ariel I'm sure its something simple everything works as it should but doesn't charge.. I'll get round to it sometimes.. Tonupdave..T.U.D.
Re: NSU Update
Posted by Lannis on February 12, 2021, 2:50 pm, in reply to "NSU Update"
I've found that both the old stuff and the new stuff works pretty well.
On my M21, all the electrics (magneto, dynamo, and regulator) are the old originals and still do the job. On my A10, they're some original (magneto, dynamo), but the old mechanical regulator failed and I replaced it with an electronic one, which also works well.
On my A65, it has the original alternator, with a Tympanium regulator/rectifier, and a Boyer ignition. I like an EI on a twin instead of points/coils because with the BSA (and probably Triumph and Norton ignitions) you can never (by design) get the point gap, timing, and dwell correct at one time ... something has to be compromised to make it work. With an EI, the trigger plate geometry assures that the two cylinders are in sync with each other, and it makes for a smoother ride.
On my Norton, it was running great with the stock electrics, but I replaced the points with an EI for the above reasons. I still have the stock alternator, starter, rectifier, and Zener diodes. Matter of fact, the rectifier failed after 45 years, and I replaced it with the 51 year old rectifier off my A65 that I took off of it, and it works fine ...
Lannis
Re: NSU Update
Posted by divie on February 12, 2021, 3:12 pm, in reply to "Re: NSU Update"
Lannis, I have recently finished adapting a Triumph T150 ignition to remove the points. I have fitted three separate "Dyna" pickup to a backplate triggered by a single magnet.(commercial units are available but use three magnets giving fixed 120 degree positions which is their failing) Each pickup is adjustable on the new baseplate plus and minus 4 degrees. This enables each cylinder to be strobe timed and also uses the original advance/retard. All a lot of sorting out but simple machining work and the bike runs so smooth.Sloper runs again.
Re: NSU Update
Posted by Tonupdave on February 12, 2021, 3:23 pm, in reply to "Re: NSU Update"
I think my probs are the regulator as I have two dynamos and both motor and put out a charge but that's bench testing??? Tonupdave..T.U.D.