Stainless retro style T140 V rear fenders 10% discount to Notice Board users this week!
If you've ever pulled one out, you'll know that it's a very basic design, just three fat ball bearings (four? it's early here) that sit in cups and reciprocating divots.
Therefore the clutch operating rod can only be 'pushed' the maximum thickness of those balls and the amount of effective travel is surprisingly limited.
So if you're adjusting your clutch with the actuating arm already close to it's maximum lift limit, you'll achieve insufficient movement at the rod.
That could be a reason for your clutch drag.
Am I making sense? Take a look at a parts diagram and it'll become apparent.
If you pull the clutch in and hear a loud 'click' then that's the sound of the ball bearings popping out of the cups - very common!
I've always found that to set up the clutch properly, it's essential to begin with setting the bottom cable adjuster until you can feel the actuator just beginning to lift against the balls - easy to do by hand - then set the rod, then set the handlebar lever adjustment.
Cheers!
Rudi
339
Message Thread '78 Factory repair manual. . - Brimor 7/27/2011, 12:25 am
« Back to index
Shropshire Classic Motorcycles for all T140 sparesFrame and cycle parts ,Frame and cycle parts Page 2,Electrical ,Engine parts ,Clutch,Gearbox,Carburetter,Stickers,Tools,
Extras,Front Forks,Brake parts,Engine parts
Stainless retro style T140 V rear fenders 10% discount to Notice Board users this week! a class="twitter-timeline" href="https://twitter.com/T140shop" data-widget-id="498823439642157058">Tweets by @T140shop