Hilary step has gone by the way, victim of the earthquake.
Actually, now that you mention it I do recall having read this somewhere. All the accounts of Everest summits I have read, took place pre-earthquake, so I had forgotten.
There are three keys to summiting everest: Your health at altitude, the weather, and your wallet. Skill doesn't really enter the equation too much.
Perhaps, but mountaineering experience might, especially if life-or-death decisions might need to be made. I expect Beck Weather for example would not have waited so long for his guide to come back - he never did, and died on the mountain trying to help another client who also died - had he been an experienced climber. Which means he would still have his nose and hands. I can't remember if he lost toes or feet as well.